In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the milk and butter to a boil. Add the cornmeal in a thin stream, whisking constantly. When mixture becomes very thick, continue to boil while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until very thick and smooth (about 5 minutes.)

Stir in the sour cream, grated Gruyere, Parmesan, crumbled Gorgonzola, raisins, and a little nutmeg, beating until smooth. Remove from heat; add salt and pepper to taste.

Spoon the cornmeal mixture into 6 1/2-cup ramekins, or custard cups, tapping molds gently on work surface to settle mixture, and smoothing tops with spatula. Cool at least 15 minutes.

Use a knife to loosen polenta from ramekins and unmold onto a generously buttered baking dish. Place a slice of Gorgonzola on top of each; sprinkle with a fine layer of breadcrumbs. Bake in 450 F oven (along with quail, if desired) for 10 to 12 minutes, then broil just until lightly golden. Serve immediately.